WOBBLE BOARD The first version of the wobble board was produced way back in 1984, it was used to develop confidence in puppies when they feel movement in what they are standing on. The first one had a length of PVC pipe attached to the middle of the underside of a three foot square board, this allowed movement in one axis, later this was changed to fitting a 'tennis' ball to allow movement in both axis, this seemed to be more successful in preparing puppy for the 'See-saw' later on, in some ways it was too successful as many puppies became over confident on this obstacle, this confidence when safely managed, produced increased learning efficiency in a fear-free environment. Either version is very easy to make, all you need is:
1 3' x 3' board (metric 1M x 1M).
4 suitable small blocks of wood to attach (glue) to the underside. 1"x1"x 1.75"
1 3' length of 2" PVC pipe, or one soft tennis ball.
Attach two blocks of wood spaced 1.75 inches apart in the middle of one side, attach the other two on the opposite side so that it forms a channel for the pipe to sit in. To use a tennis ball form a square in the middle of the board to form a 'box' to retain the ball. Place the board over the pipe/ball to use.
There are lots of different behaviour to reinforce when puppy is interacting with the board like pausing before the pivot point, standing as the board pivots. lowering the head on the board... make it a game and use lots of positive reinforcement.
Some posts from Mary Jo Sminkey's Agility list, 1995-1998.
PUPPY TRAINING
The puppy's environment can greatly affect the rate of development. As recent tests with rats have shown, the mental ability to solve puzzles differs greatly between rats reared in a dull and uneventful environment, and those reared in a mentally stimulating, colorful and exciting one. Another notable aspect was the difference in the brain cell structures. The stimulated brain had many more interconnections between cells for processing information and, with ageing, the brain's ability to generate new cells was greatly enhanced.
In regard to puppies the "equipment" should be safe and supervised but the "obstacles" should be designed for mental stimulation, and not just for "agility" as "grown-ups" know it. For example, to build the puppy's confidence with movement use a three foot square board with a tennis ball under the center while playing with the puppy. Using treats, play a game of "rocking the board"... later on you will have a very confident dog on the see-saw. A hurdle may be a length of PVC tube on the ground that the puppy can run over. Tunnels, open-ended cardboard boxes. For a "chute" use only two sides and a top on a frame.
Do not use weaves as we know
them, but a mental weave, to mentally condition the puppy for weave training
later on when grown up. Get two boards about 6 foot long, painted black, and set
about 12 inches apart so as to form a channel. Now at the correct spacing,
starting with the left-hand board, paint a vertical stripe about 1.5 inches
wide, alternating from left to right, ie., the second stripe would be on the
right-hand board. Again using a toy encourage the puppy to run through the
channel straight towards you (no turning or twisting) and then, as confidence
grows. "away" for a toy. Soon you will have the puppy
"pre-conditioned" and mentally stimulated and full of confidence. Of
course this also depends on the puppy's ability and other experiences and
inherited traits, but you will improve development and train-ability for
agility. It is important not to over train the puppy in this way; it requires
little now and again. With their fast growing minds puppies learn very fast.
Keep it fun.
Robert Loftus, 1995.
CONTACTS
Training dogs to always touch the "contacts" is a major goal of agility competitors; many a prize is won or lost on this "point". There are almost as many methods of training and/or correcting problems as there are handlers, By pre-conditioning our puppy to negotiate these obstacles correctly many of the problems can be avoided.
The object of this pre-conditioning is to teach the puppy to "walk/run" onto and off of the contact obstacles. No leaping or jumping. Get a board about 6ft long and 2ft wide, paint it gray with "yellow contacts" of 12" to 18", at each end. The board may be flat on the ground or suspended 2" above it to produce a slight movement as the puppy runs over it. The important areas for the puppy are the start and finish "contact" points where praise and reward are given, with a sit or a down to stabilize the puppy. Later on a length of PVC tube under the center will make a puppy see-saw, and we can introduce a "wait" at the pivot point. By placing the puppy on the first contact and a ball on the end contact, the puppy learns that it is rewarding to reach the start and finish of the contact obstacles.
"Older" puppies that are missing contacts need a reward to touch both contacts. The use of half-hoops just in front of and just after contacts can also help, but train the hoops separately first. A ball placed about 6" to 12" after the down contact is another motivation to walk the full length of the obstacle. Always break a fast dog's stride immediately prior to the contact obstacle to prevent the dog leaping or jumping onto the obstacle, and always encourage the dog to "walk/run" onto it. A fast dog may also need the "wait" at the apex to maintain control and a "walk/run" down the ramp.
You can also lower the A-frame till the dog can "walk/run" over it and then gradually increase the height as the dog's confidence and ability grows. By preventing "mistakes" happening we can avoid the need to correct them. Reinforce the correct behaviour while extinguishing the unwanted one.
One final point: Always train as you hope to compete. Your body language must be consistent. Don't crowd your dog by leaning over him on the contacts. Use your body position to help maintain control, speeding up or slowing down to guide and help your dog's confidence. After all, that is what handlers are for!
Robert Loftus, 1996.